Soak rye in cold water for one night.
Rinse soup meat. Peel and chop the onions. Boil both with bay leaf in cold water (1). Skim and simmer gently for 1 1/2 hours.
Cook the rye in the soaking water for 50 minutes on low heat. Rinse and clean chard, dice stems, cut leaves into narrow strips. Remove peel from potatoes, rinse and dice. Remove peel from carrots and cut into slices.
Remove meat from clear soup. Strain clear soup and cook chard stems and potatoes in it for 20 minutes. Lightly blend with the hand blender. Add carrots, drained rye and chard leaves, cook for another 7 minutes.
Remove fat and tendons from meat, dice and add to soup. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Rinse lovage, pluck leaves, chop and sprinkle over soup.